The Paris Café by Jean-Georges at the TWA Hotel NYC

 

The TWA Hotel at New York’s Kennedy Airport is one of my happy places!  The building itself, designed by architect Eero Saarinen, and opened in 1962, is a work of art!  This was the original TWA Terminal back in the day, and the overall design hasn’t changed much…if at all!  The decor holds true to the airline’s bold red and white color scheme, there are period touches throughout - like some of the renowned Saarinen “Tulip Chairs” and vintage pay phones - as well as a museum-like display of historic designer flight attendants’ uniforms.  There are no straight lines in the main building - which, by the way, is meant to resemble a bird taking flight - and the “moderne” vibe is very reminiscent of The Jetsons cartoon from 1960s television!  Basically, it’s retro-chic!  The one new element added during the building’s refurbishment, were two shiny, curved hotel towers on each side of the original structure!  

A truly fabulous hotel deserves an equally fabulous restaurant, and the Paris Café by Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is absolutely outstanding!

The Paris Café is light years beyond any conventional “airport restaurant.”  Located on a balcony, up a curved staircase to the right of the hotel’s main entrance, the space feels modern, open and airy.  Jean-Georges - a multi-Michelin Award winning chef - and the TWA Hotel team, have based the menu on historic in-flight menus from the airline’s heyday.  I’ve dined at the Paris Café a number of times now, both with my husband and alone, and I’ve enjoyed it tremendously each time!

On this particular trip, the hostess remembered me and greeted me warmly.  She led me to my table and I checked out the menu.  I decided on a cocktail, to start - the Rhubarb Cosmo. Made with vodka, Cointreau, rhubarb and lime, it was bright and tart - a refreshing take on the original.  I also detected an underlying flavor reminiscent of grapefruit, which was quite pleasant.  And although they might’ve gone just a bit too heavy on the lime, it was still lovely!

As I sipped my drink and waited for the appetizer to arrive, I listened to the entertaining music looping through the PA system - all 1960s era songs like “Twisting the Night Away,” “ Rescue Me,” and “Be My Baby.”  I also sampled some of the fresh focaccia, brought to table in a chrome basket.  Warm and pillowy, there was a hint of saltiness to the bread, which was offset by dipping it in the ramekin of olive oil.

Khan, my friendly server, brought my appetizer soon after.  I had chosen the Tuna Tartare - fresh, cold, bright red tuna, sitting on a layer of avocado, topped with thinly sliced radishes and surrounded by an absolutely addictive ginger dressing!  I was wowed by the vibrant Asian flavor profile of the dish - the ginger/soy dressing had a touch of chili oil, which gave it a bit of heat, but that was balanced out by the coolness of the avocado. In addition, the radish provided crunch and a peppery note. And while the tuna was the star of the dish, I had to restrain myself from picking up the bowl and drinking that sublime ginger broth!  So good!

Next up; my entree, the Poppyseed Crusted Samon.  Served with a coconut-carrot sauce, quinoa and a dash of micro basil, this was an excellent choice for a warm spring evening!  The cook on the fish was perfect, and while the poppyseed crust didn’t contribute any real flavor, but for a vague nuttiness, it kept the salmon moist and juicy, as well as adding texture.  The sauce could have benefited from a touch more salt and perhaps a bit of heat to offset the sweetness, but it was delicious, nonetheless!  The quinoa was actually nice and fluffy - less stodgy than it can be in less experienced hands, and the carrots added earthiness and a satisfying crunch, keeping the dish interesting throughout - not just from a flavor standpoint, but texturally as well!  I also appreciated the addition of the micro basil, which lent the dish an herbal pop.  I actually could’ve used a bit more, as I’m a big fan of basil, but that’s just me!

I had also ordered a side of Grilled Asparagus, which was prepared perfectly - crisp; not mushy in the least.  The vegetable’s natural flavor was enhanced nicely by a hint of olive oil, lemon and the perfect touch of salt!

Finally, dessert!  I chose the Passionfruit Sundae with passionfruit sorbet and a white wine glaze.  This ended up being the only hitch in the meal.  I was brought a beautiful, somewhat deconstructed sundae without a word.  So far, so good.  Strangely, on my first bite, I tasted strawberry. For that matter, I was pretty certain I wasn’t eating sorbet, but ice cream!  I was eventually able to flag down my server and ask if there had been a mixup.  He told me they were actually out of the ingredients for my original choice.  And I understand - restaurants do run out of things.  And what I got was very tasty - I did finish it.  But I was a little miffed that I hadn’t been told about the substitution beforehand - I might’ve changed my order.  Also, I happen to love passionfruit and that was what my mouth was set for.  Still, the strawberry ice cream and fresh strawberry compote were yummy and the crunchy nut topping and fresh whipped cream completed the dish, making every bite delightful!  Still….

At any rate, once again I loved my meal at Paris Café!  I adore the space, the vibe, and of course, the food.  The visit I’m describing took place in May of this year, and I’m already preparing for a trip to Vegas in September.  You can rest assured that I’ll be visiting the fabulous TWA Hotel again, and dining at this exceptional restaurant by the brilliant Jean-Georges, once more!